7-Day Rome & Positano Itinerary: Where to Stay, Eat & Explore

What does your dream vacation look like? Do you love sight seeing but also want to relax by the pool or beach? Why choose between the two? With 7 days (plus travel) you can see ancient Rome, the Vatican, tour the Amalfi coast and more. Here’s how we did it and everything you need to know from where to stay, eat, and how to get around.

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Quick Trip Overview:

Seven days is the ideal amount of time to combine Rome and Positano: 3–4 days in Rome for the Colosseum, Vatican, and historic center, plus 2–3 days in Positano for the Amalfi Coast, beach clubs, and a boat tour. Travel between the two cities by high-speed train to Salerno, then ferry to Positano; it’s faster, more scenic, and cheaper than a private transfer.

At A Glance Itinerary:

Where to Stay in Rome: Why We Chose Prati

Rome has several great neighborhoods and the right one for you depends on what type of trip you want. Trastevere has a lively nightlife with some of the best authentic restaurants. The Monti area puts you right in ancient Rome, great for history lovers. The Historic Center (Centro Storico) is near the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, perfect for first time visitors. Piazza di Spagn is near the Spanish Steps and luxury shopping. We would not recommend staying near the train station in Rome (Roma Termini) as it’s a rougher area although the outskirts are fine. We chose Prati near the Vatican because it’s quieter and residential, giving us a more local vibe.  

Arrival Day 1: Explore Rome at Your Own Pace

If you’re flying from overseas and can’t sleep on planes, skip booking a tour for arrival day. Ease in instead by exploring at your own pace, starting with a great meal. We had dinner at ZIG Ristorante where I had the best Cacio e Pepe with fried zucchini on top – and I’m not even a big pasta fan (Sandra here – unpopular opinion, I know). Since we were staying in Prati, we decided to walk around Villa Borghese, a beautiful garden with a terrace that has a view of St Peter’s Basilica. Lovely at golden hour! Then the nearby Piazza del Popolo which was setting up for the TIM Summer Hits music festival. We returned another night for that and had the best time dancing along to Italian pop, in the middle of a piazza, as if we were locals.

Rooftops:

End the night on a rooftop bar like Terrazza Nainer near Piazza del Popolo, or Terrazza Les Etoiles near Castel Sant’Angelo. 

Day 2: Rome Historic Center

Two musts in the Rome Historic Center are the Trevi Fountain and Pantheon. Walking through the narrow Italian streets and suddenly seeing the Trevi Fountain is a bit emotional. It’s not just a fountain, but a large marble masterpiece in the middle of the city. Expect a crowd but you can pay 2 Euros to get closer to the fountain which is less crowded. We loved the Trevi so much that we had to return to see it lit up at night. 

The Pantheon is an architectural marvel. The dome ceiling has a hole at the top (oculus) because the weight of it would have collapsed the building, and the floor is designed to not puddle when it rains. The oculus was also believed to strengthen the connection between the heavens and below. Church services are still conducted here. An audio guide walks you through how the Pantheon was built and its history.

Tip: If you book a Pantheon tour, make sure you get an email for all tickets and read the directions carefully. We waited in line only to find out one of the emails was not a ticket and we needed to collect our audio headsets at a different location. Luckily we didn’t have to wait in line twice.  

Shopping:

The Spanish Steps and Piazza Navona are also popular attractions. During our visit, both were under construction but still great to see. You can be fined for sitting on the Spanish Steps and there were police officers enforcing the rule during the day. Next to the Spanish Steps is high end luxury shopping so don’t forget your passport on this day if you plan to claim VAT. Here’s everything you need to know about claiming your VAT refund in Europe. Looking for a premium quality authentic Italian bag but don’t want to spend high-end designer prices? Check out Coccinelle and Furla, and shop our favorite items for this trip here.

Where to Eat:

There are several great restaurants near Piazza Navona but Osteria da Fortunata is highly recommended with over 30k reviews! We had lunch reservations but spent longer at the Pantheon and missed out. If you’ve been, let us know how it was in the comments. Instead we found Deroma near the Trevi Fountain and had a delicious bone marrow with steak tartare. The ambiance here is more modern, with a moody vibe.

Cooking Class and Exploring on e-Bikes:

Later that day we attended a pasta and tiramisu cooking class with Marco from Eat and Walk Italy. You can get your tickets here from Viator. The class was so fun and ended with wine, limoncello and eating our homemade creations. Then we rode around the city on Lime e-Bikes which was one of the highlights of our trip and made my inner child so happy. You can easily locate and rent bikes and scooters on the Lime app, just make sure not to return them in a red zone.  

Day 3: The Vatican – Museums, Sistine Chapel & St Peter’s Basilica

The Vatican Museum is closed on Sundays so plan accordingly if you also want to attend St Peter’s Basilica for mass which is offered daily in Italian. Most Wednesday mornings, the Pope holds a general audience outside the basilica, closing it to the public until his visit concludes.

St Peter’s Basilica & The Dome:

We arrived at St Peter’s around 7am; by 9am the crowds of tour groups were filing in. The basilica is stunning and it’s hard to believe that the interior is mosaic not paint. Tickets are not needed for the Basilica but climbing to the dome requires one. For the dome there are two options, elevator or stairs, however the elevator still involves stairs towards the end. The stair option is 551 stairs which at some point becomes a narrow hallway and later a cork screw with just a rope hung in the center as a railing. It was hot, humid and quite miserable for that stretch but the views were worth it. After our workout, we stopped for a much needed pizza and aperol spritz before continuing to the Vatican Museum. 

Vatican Museum & Sistine Chapel:

Book skip the line tickets for the Vatican Museum in advance. You do not want to wait in that line especially during the hot and humid summers. Bring your passport as IDs are checked upon entering. This museum has many exhibits and you could spend an entire day so map out what is most important to you. The Sistine Chapel is of course a main attraction and there are arrows throughout the museum pointing you to it. No photos are allowed in the Sistine Chapel so take it all in and get an audio guide. Michelangelo has famously always claimed to be a Sculptor not a Painter but his work here is another masterpiece. Being here stirred up many emotions, some of which I didn’t understand until after the trip, and reading up on the history of the Vatican and Michelagelo’s work at the Sistine Chapel. If you are also going through a spiritual awakening, look it up. 

Live Jazz, Dinner & Drinks:

We returned to our hotel in Prati for a shower (Rome’s humidity in summer months is uncomfortable for this desert dweller) and some rest. For dinner we found tickets to live jazz, dinner and drinks for a great price and the food was delicious! Afterwards we rented e-Bikes and rode through the Vatican on our way back to the hotel. St Peter’s Basilica is stunning at night and we recommend you try to see it at both times as well. 

Day 4: Ancient Rome – Colosseum, Roman Forum & Palatine Hill

My favorite day in Rome was seeing Ancient Rome! We went to the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill with a guide. Don’t skip out on this by only doing the Colosseum or going to the other sites without a guide because you won’t know what you’re looking at. Recently the Colosseum has changed their policy and does not allow tour guides inside so you will enter alone. All of these sites are outdoors so during summer, the best time to book a tour is early in the morning or during their last slot of the day. We did the latter which turned out perfectly because the clouds came out and gave us some relief from the July heat. 

Roman Forum & Palatine Hill:

Roman Forum was once the city center of Rome where elections, speeches, trials and ceremonies were held dating back to 500 BC. It’s amazing to walk through the ruins and imagine what life must have been like in earlier times and during one of the longest reigning empires. You’ll see where Julius Caesar lived, the senate house, temples, the Arch of Titus and the column of Phocas. Eventually you’ll make your way to Palatine Hill where you’ll get a view of the Roman Forum from above. Many people just get Colosseum tickets and miss this experience but you’ll be glad you didn’t. 

The Colosseum:

The Colosseum was simply mind blowing. It’s unbelievable that this arena was built in 72-80 AD. If you know history or have seen the movie Gladiator, you know this arena held animals underground before they were released to fight, and the arena floor was even flooded when depicting ship fights. A basic tour of the Colosseum will give you access to the first floor (level 2). For a better experience, you’ll want to see the arena floor (level 1) where the gladiators would enter. Underground tours are also available but limited and sell out quickly.  

Knights of Malta Keyhole, Orange Garden & Holy Stairs:

On this day, you can also add the Knights of Malta Keyhole, the Orange Garden and the Holy Stairs. The Knights of Malta Keyhole is just a large keyhole in a gate door that lines up perfectly with St Peters Basilica at the end of a tree lined path. There’s pictures of it all over Instagram and might be a cool experience but be prepared to wait in line. During our visit, a delivery van entered the gate and blocked the view so we missed out. The Orange Garden (Giardino degli Aranci) is nearby and has a terrace with views of St Peters Basilica and Victor Emmanuele II National Monument. This is another great place for sunset views. The Holy Stairs (Scala Santa) are the stairs Jesus climbed on the day of his crucifixion and were transported from Jerusalem. You can climb the stairs on your knees or walk up the adjacent stairs to reach the chapel.   

Where to Eat:

Head to Trastevere for dinner and nightlife. We ate at the highly rated Tonnarello and can see why its popular. Fried artichoke is a famous Roman dish you should try here as an appetizer. The Straccetti was perfetto!

Day 5: Depart for Positano

The best way to get to Positano from Rome is by high-speed train to Salerno, then a ferry to Positano. A private transfer is very expensive while taking the train to Naples and then bus to Positano is less scenic and a nightmare with large suitcases. The train station in Salerno is walking distance to the ferry port so it’s convenient, and the ferry is scenic the entire way with amazing views of the Amalfi coast. Hotels can arrange a porter for your luggage in advance but there are several porters at the dock willing to help for 15 Euros per luggage. Positano is a vertical town with lots of tourists so you will be glad to pay the fee. 

Positano Beaches:

We did a little browsing at the nearby shops before we walked about 10min past the main beach to the more private Fornillo Beach. You can rent loungers at one of the beach clubs or stay on the public portion for free but either way, know that the beaches in Positano are rocky not sandy so a lounger may be more comfortable. Popular beach clubs in Positano include Arienzo, Pupetto, La Scogliera, Da Ferdinando, and Laurito.

Getting Around Positano:

To get around Positano, walking is likely best although very tiring since it’s all uphill with endless stairs. Taxis are expensive and often as unreliable as the bus. We once waited over an hour for a bus and it got stuck on a turn near a cliff which was terrifying. Bus tickets can only be purchased with Euros either on the bus for an upcharge, or at the Tabacchi store across from one of the stations. 

Where To Eat:

For lunch: Head to Chez Black, a turquoise beachfront restaurant that serves fresh seafood and delicious pizza. For dinner: Saraceno d’Oro had one of the best pizzas and desserts of the trip (Get the crème brûlée with pistachio ice cream!), and we were even given a glass of champagne while waiting to be seated! Now that’s the lux treatment.

Day 6: Amalfi Coast Boat Tour

One of the highlights of this trip was a boat tour of the Amalfi coast. Here is a link to the specific tour we went on. The tour was around 7 hours which included stopping at the Emerald Grotto, swimming near the coast, and your choice of 1 hour in Amalfi city and lunch at a restaurant only accessible by boat, or 3hrs in Amalfi. We chose to explore Amalfi for 3 hours and had the most amazing lunch at Da Gemma. Get the goat cheese ravioli! 

You could also do a day trip to Capri instead.

After the boat tour we relaxed in the hotel for a bit and got so lucky on timing because a huge storm hit. Once it cleared up, a double rainbow appeared as if Positano could look like any more of a dream. We had another amazing dinner at Il Fornillo with a table outside overlooking the water.  

Day 7: Positano & Return to Rome

By now we felt like we desperately needed to relax. We found a beautiful spa at Villa Magia and booked foot massages with access to the pool. I forgot the name of the masseuse but she was AMAZING! All of the staff was so lovely and it was a perfect ending to our stay in Positano. We might just need to return and stay at Villa Magia for the entire trip. 

For breakfast we ate at Casa e Bottega, one of the few places that has matcha and almond milk for lattes (don’t ask for a latte in Italy because that literally just means a glass of milk). For lunch we had some snacks and champagne at Villa Magia, and then it was time to head back to Rome. 

That evening we rode around on the Lime e-bikes again and stopped to see the Trevi Fountain at night. I can’t decide which time of day it’s prettiest but with the surrounding streets all lit up for restaurant outdoor seating, you can feel the hospitality of Italia. We walked a little further away from the touristy spots and found another favorite pizza at Pinsitaly. They do small personal pizzas so try several flavors. For dessert, stop at Venchi for gelato or chocolate.

Frequently Asked Questions:

How many days do I need in Rome and Positano? Plan at least 3 days in Rome to see the Colosseum, Vatican, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon and all the beautiful piazzas. Positano deserves at least 2 days so you don’t feel rushed and can enjoy a boat tour. 

What’s the best way to get from Rome to Positano? Take a high-speed train from Rome to Salerno, then a ferry to Positano. The ferry dock is walking distance from the Salerno train station making it an easy transfer. The ferry is also scenic the entire way allowing you to see the Amalfi coast and more. 

How do you get around in Positano? Walking is the best way to get around Positano as buses and taxis are unreliable, and taxis are expensive. If you take the bus, you must purchase your tickets with Euros. 

Where should I eat in Rome?

• Prati: ZIG Ristorante
• Near Piazza Navona: Osteria da Fortunata
• Trastevere: Tonnarello 
• Near Trevi Fountain: Pinsitaly, Deroma

Where should I eat in Positano?

• Chez Black
• Il Fornillo
• Saraceno d’Oro
• Casa e Bottega
• Amalfi: Da Gemma

Do I need to buy tickets in advance for the Colosseum? Yes! Colosseum tickets sell out fast so reserve about 30 days prior to your visit. The underground is commonly oversold by third party companies and may be cancelled. 

Is there a dress code at the Vatican and in Churches? Yes, shoulders and knees must be covered. In the hot summer months, many women use a thin scarf to easily cover up.

If you’ve been to Rome or Positano, tell us about your experience in the comments. We’d love to hear from you! Follow us on socials @gowithgracetravels to see more photos and videos of our adventures, and subscribe to our newsletter for sneak peeks into where we go next, plus more tips. Ciao!

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